There are parts where that moulding is very close to the doors, and there are parts where there is a. Then we added a 3/4" cove moulding (I think) on top that goes to the ceiling. What we ended up using was a flat piece of wood on top of the cabinets, flush with doors. We did DIY and dealt with an uneven ceiling. We used 40" cabinets and had a very hard time dealing with them, so I'm not really seeing how the math works for you to use even a 1.75" crown. You need to find the lowest point on the ceiling & set the uppers at that lowest point. You will need to do this for the entire wall(s) of cabinets. If the mark on the wall is higher than the ceiling at the 31" mark, your door will bind on the ceiling & therefore the cabinets need to be lowered more. In other words, say a 36" wide cabinet = 13" deep + 18" for a door = 31" deep from the wall. Use a level equal to the depth of the upper cabinets & the depth of the widest door when open. Stretch a level out from the wall forward from that mark. To do this, mark the top of where the cabinets will land on the wall. But first, you need to determine if the doors will open if you go tight to the ceiling. Either live with the gaps or fill them in. Unfortunately, you don't have a lot of choices. Not an easy task, even for a professional. This filler can be scribed to fit the contours of the ceiling after the cabinets are installed. When going tight to the ceiling, typically I'll plan on using a 5/8" to 1" filler strip to go between the top of the cabinets & the ceiling. Basically, you need to find out how the ceiling flows out front of the cabinets as you have along the length of the wall. The other problem that may not have shown yet is that if you go tight to the ceiling, & the ceiling droops past the front of the cabinets, your doors will bind on the ceiling as you open them. However, do keep in mind that the 18" is typically a building code requirement within 18" of either side of the range. Reducing that height is an option, given your situation. That's not including any light valance/rail or top moulding. If you do the math, your 42" uppers, tight to the ceiling, are at the exact height of 18" off the countertop. This has been a learning experience for sure. I guess we were just so excited to have a new kitchen that we overlooked a lot of important details. I know that we should have planned better. I don’t know if that would look really odd, or if it wouldn’t be that noticeable since it’s at the end. Unfortunately, if we lowered the cabinets to add some type of molding, there is no way that it could be installed above this cabinet. It’s at the back left of our kitchen, so it’s not as noticeable. We were lucky that it fit correctly, and we were able to slide it right into place. My concern with adding molding is that we have a floor to ceiling pantry cabinet. It doesn’t seem like this would work well. The other option would be no molding and trying to somehow conceal the open gap. I’m assuming that I could also use a thin scribe molding to cover the gap, but I don’t know if that would look too modern. Although without using some type of riser piece, it doesn’t seem like that would fix the issue. I know that they make a 1.75” crown, which would shorten our backsplash to around 16”. We have a more traditional kitchen (antique white cabinets). Unfortunately, I don't know how much to lower them or what type of molding to consider. There are a couple spots that would have a 1/4” gap.Īre there any good ways to handle this? I was thinking that one option would be to bring the cabinets down a certain distance from the ceiling, so that I could install some type of molding. Our main wall where the stove is located is much better. This means that the first cabinet would sit flush and then you would gradually see a space. On one of the walls, a 1/2" gap opens as you move to the right. The issue is that our ceilings are not level. We didn’t think this through carefully enough, and now we’re just trying to get this to work as best as possible. If I could do this all over again, it would have been easier to use 36”/39”. We had wanted to maximize storage space and went with 42" cabinets. We are doing everything ourselves except for the countertops. We are in the process of renovating our kitchen.
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